ASE Certification Training Headquarters

Online ASE Certification Training and Career Center

Welcome to ASE Certification Training Headquarters! We have everything you need to make your life easier as you begin your career as an Automotive Service Excellence Certified Master Mechanic. State specific training requirements, a step-by-step hiring process, potential employers, and interviews to help you get hired are just some of the helpful things you'll find here.

ASE Certified Mechanic

Congratulations on your decision to boost and accelerate your career potential as an auto mechanic!

ASE certification is nationally recognized and will put you ahead of the competition in the auto mechanic job market!

Be sure to try our free practice tests to ensure you ace the ASE exam!

Automotive mechanic certification requirements vary from state to state, so please select your state below to read about how to quickly get certified as an auto mechanic today!

Free ASE 1 – Engine Repair Test Questions & Study Guide

Preparing for the Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) A1 – Engine Repair exam and don’t know where to start?

Test your knowledge with some free ASE tests and know where you stand! After clicking on your answer, be sure to review what the correct answer and explanation.

By using these free ASE test questions, you’ll know where to brush up on your engine repair knowledge and exactly which study guides to hone in on and follow. Be sure to check out the auto mechanic certification requirements by state for additional information!

Good luck!

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Tech Tip:  Always Replace the Radiator Pressure Cap

Replacing Old Radiator Caps

Replace the old radiator cap with a new cap with the same pressure rating.  The cap can be located on the following:

  1. Radiator
  2. Coolant recovery reservoir
  3. Upper radiator hose


Never remove a pressure cap from a hot engine. When the pressure is removed from the system, the coolant will immediately boil and will expand upward, throwing scalding coolant in all directions. Hot coolant can cause serious burns.

Cooling System Hoses

All cooling system hoses should be checked for wear or damage.

Disposing of Used Coolant

Used coolant drained from vehicles should be disposed of according to state or local laws. Some communities permit draining into the sewer. Ethylene glycol will easily biodegrade. There could be problems with groundwater contamination, however, if coolant is spilled on open ground. Check with recycling companies authorized by local or state governments for the exact method recommended for disposal in your area.

Cleaning the Radiator Exterior

Overheating can result from exterior and interior radiator plugging. External plugging is caused by dirt and insects. This type of plugging can be seen if you look straight through the radiator while a light is held behind it. It is most likely to occur on off-road vehicles. The plugged exterior of the radiator core can usually be cleaned with water pressure from a hose. The water is aimed at the engine side of the radiator. The water should flow freely through the core at all locations. If this does not clean the core, the radiator should be removed for cleaning at a radiator shop.

Tech Tip:  Always Use Heater Hoses Designed for Coolant

Many heater hoses are sizes that can also be used for other purposes such as oil lines. Always check and use hose that states it is designed for heater or cooling system use.

Heater Hose for Coolant

The top 3/8 in. hose is designed for oil and similar liquids, whereas the 3/8 in. hose below is labeled “heater hose” and is designed for coolant.

Tech Tip:  Quick and Easy Cooling System Problem Diagnosis

  1. If overheating occurs in slow stop-and-go traffic, the usual cause is low airflow through the radiator. Check for airflow blockages or cooling fan malfunction.
  2. If overheating occurs at highway speeds, the cause is usually a radiator or coolant circulation problem. Check for a restricted or clogged radiator.

Next Steps towards ASE Certification

Now that you’re familiar with Heater Cores: Problem Diagnosis, Inspection, Pressure, and Dye Testing, try out our free Automotive Service Excellence Tests to see how much you know!

Cooling System Service

Flushing Coolant

Flushing the cooling system includes the following steps.

  • STEP 1 Drain the system (dispose of the old coolant correctly).
  • STEP 2 Fill the system with clean water and flushing/cleaning chemical.
  • STEP 3 Start the engine until it reaches operating temperature with the heater on.
  • STEP 4 Drain the system and fill with clean water.
  • STEP 5 Repeat until drain water runs clear (any remaining flush agent will upset pH).
  • STEP 6 Fill the system with 50/50 antifreeze/water mix or premixed coolant.
  • STEP 7 Start the engine until it reaches operating temperature with the heater on.
  • STEP 8 Adjust coolant level as needed.

Bleeding the air out of the cooling system is important because air can prevent proper operation of the heater and can cause the engine to overheat. Use a clear hose attached to the bleeder valve and the other end in a “suitable” container. This prevents coolant from getting on the engine and gives the technician a visual clue as to the color of coolant.

Check service information for specific bleeding procedures and location of the air bleeder fittings.

Bleeder Valve Refilling Coolant System

(a) Many vehicle manufacturers recommend that the bleeder valve be opened whenever refilling the coolant system. (b) Chrysler recommends that a clear plastic hose (1/4 in. ID) be attached to the bleeder valve and directed into a suitable container to keep from spilling coolant onto the ground and on the engine and to allow the technician to observe the flow of coolant for any remaining oil bubbles.

Coolant Exchange Machine

Many coolant exchange machines are able to perform one or more of the following operations.

  • Exchange old coolant with new coolant
  • Flush the cooling system
  • Pressure or vacuum check the cooling system for leaks

The use of a coolant exchange machine pulls a vacuum on the cooling system which helps illuminate air pockets from forming during coolant replacement. If an air pocket were to occur, the following symptoms may occur.

  1. Lack of heat from the heater. Air rises and can form in the heater core, which will prevent coolant from flowing.

Overheating. The engine can overheat due to the lack of proper coolant flow through the system. Always follow the operating instructions for the coolant exchange machine being used.

Coolant Exchange Machine

Using a coolant exchange machine helps eliminate the problem of air getting into the system which can cause overheating or lack of heat due to air pockets getting trapped in the system.

Hose Inspection

Coolant system hoses are critical to engine cooling. As the hoses get old, they become either soft or brittle and sometimes swell in diameter. Their condition depends on their material and on the engine service conditions. If a hose breaks while the engine is running, all coolant will be lost. A hose should be replaced any time it appears to be abnormal.

  • HINT: To make hose removal easier and to avoid possible damage to the radiator, use a utility knife and slit the hose lengthwise. Then simply peel the hose off.

The hose and hose clamp should be positioned so that the clamp is close to the bead on the neck. This is especially important on aluminum hose necks to avoid corrosion. When the hoses are in place and the drain petcock is closed, the cooling system can be refilled with the correct coolant mixture.

Next Steps towards ASE Certification

Now that you’re familiar with Heater Cores: Problem Diagnosis, Inspection, Pressure, and Dye Testing, try out our free Automotive Service Excellence Tests to see how much you know!

Coolant Temperature Warning Lights & Coolant System Inspection

Coolant System Warning Light Purpose & Function

Most vehicles are equipped with a heat sensor for the engine operating temperature indicator light. If the warning light comes on during driving (or the temperature gauge goes into the red danger zone), then the coolant temperature is about 250°F to 258°F (120°C to 126°C), which is still below the boiling point of the coolant (assuming a properly operating pressure cap and system).

Overheated Engine Coolant Overflow

When an engine overheats, often the coolant overflow container boils.


If the coolant temperature warning light comes on, follow these steps.

  • STEP 1 Shut off the air conditioning and turn on the heater. The heater will help rid the engine of extra heat. Set the blower speed to high.
  • STEP 2 If possible, shut the engine off and let it cool. (This may take over an hour.)
  • STEP 3 Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot.
  • STEP 4 Do not continue to drive with the hot light on, or serious damage to your engine could result.
  • STEP 5 If the engine does not feel or smell hot, it is possible that the problem is a faulty hot light sensor or gauge. Continue to drive, but to be safe, stop occasionally and check for any evidence of overheating or coolant loss.

Common Causes of Overheating

Overheating can be caused by defects in the cooling system, such as the following:

  1. Low coolant level
  2. Plugged, dirty, or blocked radiator
  3. Defective fan clutch or electric fan
  4. Incorrect ignition timing (if adjustable)
  5. Low engine oil level
  6. Broken fan drive belt
  7. Defective radiator cap
  8. Dragging brakes
  9. Frozen coolant (in freezing weather)
  10. Defective thermostat
  11. Defective water pump (the impeller slipping on the shaft internally)
  12. Blocked cooling passages in the block or cylinder head(s)

Real World Fix:  Highway Overheating

A vehicle owner complained of an overheating vehicle, but the problem occurred only while driving at highway speeds. The vehicle, equipped with a 4-cylinder engine, would run in a perfectly normal manner in city driving situations.

The technician flushed the cooling system and replaced the radiator cap and the water pump, thinking that restricted coolant flow was the cause of the problem. Further testing revealed coolant spray out of one cylinder when the engine was turned over by the starter with the spark plugs removed.

A new head gasket solved the problem. Obviously, the head gasket leak was not great enough to cause any problems until the engine speed and load created enough flow and heat to cause the coolant temperature to soar.

The technician also replaced the oxygen (O2) sensor, because the IAT-type coolant contains phosphates and silicates that often contaminate the sensor. The deteriorated oxygen sensor could have contributed to the problem.

Cooling System Inspection

Coolant Level

The cooling system is one of the most maintenance-free systems in the engine. Normal maintenance involves an occasional check on the coolant level. It should also include a visual inspection for signs of coolant system leaks and for the condition of the coolant hoses and fan drive belts.

  1. CAUTION: The coolant level should only be checked when the engine is cool. Removing the pressure cap from a hot engine will release the cooling system pressure while the coolant temperature is above its atmospheric boiling temperature. When the cap is removed, the pressure will instantly drop to atmospheric pressure level, causing the coolant to boil immediately. Vapors from the boiling liquid will blow coolant from the system. Coolant will be lost, and someone may be injured or burned by the high-temperature coolant that is blown out of the filler opening.

Accessory Drive Belt Tension

Drive belt condition and proper installation are important for the proper operation of the cooling system.

There are four ways vehicle manufacturers specify that the belt tension is within factory specifications.

  1. Belt tension gauge. A belt tension gauge is needed to achieve the specified belt tension. Install the belt and operate the engine with all of the accessories turned on, to run in the belt for at least five minutes. Adjust the tension of the accessory drive belt to factory specifications. The proper tension is based on the size of the belt. Replace any serpentine belt that has more than three cracks in any one rib that appears in a 3 in. span.
  2. Marks on the tensioner. Many tensioners have marks that indicate the normal operating tension range for the accessory drive belt. Check service information for the location of the tensioner mark.
  3. Torque wrench reading. Some vehicle manufacturers specify that a beam-type torque wrench be used to determine the torque needed to rotate the tensioner. If the torque reading is below specifications, the tensioner must be replaced.
  4. Depress the belt between the two pulleys that are the farthest apart and the flex or deflection should be 1/2 in.
Typical Marks on an accessory Drive Belt Tensioner

Typical marks on an accessory drive belt tensioner.


Tech Tip:  The Water Spray Trick

Lower-than-normal alternator output could be the result of a loose or slipping drive belt. All belts (V and serpentine multigroove) use an interference angle between the angle of the Vs of the belt and the angle of the Vs on the pulley. A belt wears this interference angle off the edges of the V of the belt. As a result, the belt may start to slip and make a squealing sound even if tensioned properly.

A common trick to determine if the noise is from the belt is to spray water from a squirt bottle at the belt with the engine running. If the noise stops, the belt is the cause of the noise. The water quickly evaporates and therefore, water just finds the problem—it does not provide a short-term fix.

Next Steps towards ASE Certification

Now that you’re familiar with Heater Cores: Problem Diagnosis, Inspection, Pressure, and Dye Testing, try out our free Automotive Service Excellence Tests to see how much you know!

Heater Cores: Problem Diagnosis, Inspection, Pressure, and Dye Testing

Heater Cores Purpose and Function

Most of the heat absorbed from the engine by the cooling system is wasted. Some of this heat, however, is recovered by the vehicle heater. Heated coolant is passed through tubes in the small core of the heater. Air is passed across the heater fins and is then sent to the passenger compartment. In some vehicles, the heater and air conditioning work in series to maintain vehicle compartment temperature.

Heater Problem Diagnosis

When the heater does not produce the desired amount of heat, many owners and technicians replace the thermostat before doing any other troubleshooting. It is true that a defective thermostat is the reason for the engine not to reach normal operating temperature, but there are many other causes besides a defective thermostat that can result in lack of heat from the heater. To determine the exact cause, follow this procedure.

Heater Core Installed in a HVAC Housing Assembly

A typical heater core installed in a heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning (HVAC) housing assembly.


After the engine has been operated, feel the upper radiator hose. If the engine is up to proper operating temperature, the upper radiator hose should be too hot to hold. The hose should also be pressurized.

  1. If the hose is not hot enough, replace the thermostat.
  2. If the hose is not pressurized, test or replace the radiator pressure cap if it will not hold the specified pressure.
  3. If okay, see step 2.


With the engine running, feel both heater hoses. (The heater should be set to the maximum heat position.) Both hoses should be too hot to hold. If both hoses are warm (not hot) or cool, check the heater control valve for proper operation (if equipped). If one hose is hot and the other (return) is just warm or cool, remove both hoses from the heater core or engine and flush the heater core with water from a garden hose.


If both heater hoses are hot and there is still a lack of heating concern, then the fault is most likely due to an airflow blend door malfunction. Check service information for the exact procedure to follow.

HINT: Heat from the heater that “comes and goes” is most likely the result of low coolant level. Usually with the engine at idle, there is enough coolant flow through the heater. At higher engine speeds, however, the lack of coolant through the heads and block prevents sufficient flow through the heater.

Cooling System Testing

Visual Inspection

Many cooling system faults can be found by performing a thorough visual inspection. Items that can be

inspected visually include:

  • Water pump drive belt for tension or faults
  • Cooling fan for faults
  • Heater and radiator hoses for condition and leaks
  • Coolant overflow or surge tank coolant level
  • Evidence of coolant loss
  • Radiator condition
Corroded Rusted Radiator from Overheating Vehicle

A heavily corroded radiator from a vehicle that was overheating. A visual inspection discovered that the corrosion had eaten away many of the cooling fins, yet did not leak. This radiator was replaced and it solved the overheating problem.

Pressure Testing

Pressure testing using a hand-operated pressure tester is a quick and easy cooling system test. The radiator cap is removed (engine cold!) and the tester is attached in the place of the radiator cap. By operating the plunger on the pump, the entire cooling system is pressurized.

  • CAUTION: Do not pump up the pressure beyond that specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Most systems should not be pressurized beyond 14 PSI (100 kPa). If a greater pressure is used, it may cause the water pump, radiator, heater core, or hoses to fail.

If the cooling system is free from leaks, the pressure should stay and not drop. If the pressure drops, look for evidence of leaks anywhere in the cooling system, including:

  1. Heater hoses
  2. Radiator hoses
  3. Radiator
  4. Heater core
  5. Cylinder head
  6. Core plugs in the side of the block or cylinder head
Pressure Tester for Cooling System Diagnosis

The pressure cap should be checked for proper operation using a pressure tester as part of the cooling system diagnosis.

Pressure testing should be performed whenever there is a leak or suspected leak. The pressure tester can also be used to test the radiator cap. An adapter is used to connect the pressure tester to the radiator cap. Replace any cap that will not hold pressure.

Pressure Testing of a Car Engine under the Hood

Pressure testing should be performed whenever there is a leak or suspected leak.

Coolant Dye Leak Testing

One of the best methods to check for a coolant leak is to use a fluorescent dye in the coolant, one that is specifically designed for coolant. Operate the vehicle with the dye in the coolant until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Use a black light to inspect all areas of the cooling system. When there is a leak, it will be easy to spot because the dye in the coolant will be seen as bright green. Pressure testing the cooling system. A typical hand-operated pressure tester applies pressure equal to the radiator cap pressure. The pressure should hold; if it drops, this indicates a leak somewhere in the cooling system. An adapter is used to attach the pump to the cap to determine if the radiator can hold pressure, and release it when pressure rises above its maximum rated pressure setting.

Coolant Leak Checking Dye Black Light

Use dye specifically made for coolant when checking for leaks using a black light.

Next Steps towards ASE Certification

Now that you’re familiar with Heater Cores: Problem Diagnosis, Inspection, Pressure, and Dye Testing, try out our free Automotive Service Excellence Tests to see how much you know!

Coolant Flow in the Engine

Types of Systems

Coolant flows through the engine in one of the following ways.

  • Parallel flow system. In the parallel flow system, coolant flows into the block under pressure and then crosses the head gasket to the head through main coolant passages beside each cylinder.
  • Series flow system. In the series flow system, the coolant flows around all the cylinders on each bank. All the coolant flows to the rear of the block, where large main coolant passages allow the coolant to flow across the head gasket. The coolant then enters the rear of the heads. In the heads, the coolant flows forward to a crossover passage on the intake manifold outlet at the highest point in the engine cooling passage. This is usually located at the front of the engine. The outlet is either on the heads or in the intake manifold.
  • Series-parallel flow system. Some engines use a combination of these two coolant flow systems and call it a seriesparallel flow system. Any steam that develops will go directly to the top of the radiator. In series flow systems, bleed holes or steam slits in the gasket, block, and head perform the function of letting out the steam.
Chevy V8 Block Coolant Holes Head Gasket

A Chevrolet V-8 Block that shows the large coolant holes and the smaller gas vent or bleed holes that must match the head gasket when the engine is assembled.

Coolant Flow and Head Gasket Design

Most V-type engines use cylinder heads that are interchangeable side to side, but not all engines. Therefore, based on the design of the cooling system and flow through the engine, it is very important to double check that the cylinder head is matched to the block and that the head gasket is installed correctly (end for end) so that all of the cooling passages are open to allow the proper flow of coolant through the system.

Cooling Fans

Electronically Controlled Cooling Fan

Two types of electric cooling fans used on many engines include:

  • One two-speed cooling fan
  • Two cooling fans (one for normal cooling and one for high heat conditions)

The PCM commands low-speed fans on under the following conditions.

  • Engine coolant temperature (ECT) exceeds approximately 223°F (106°C).
  • A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds 190 PSI (1,310 kPa).
  • After the vehicle is shut off, the engine coolant temperature at key-off is greater than 284°F (140°C) and system voltage is more than 12 volts. The fan(s) will stay on for approximately three minutes.

The PCM commands the high-speed fan on under the following conditions.

  • Engine coolant temperature (ECT) reaches 230°F (110°C).
  • A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds 240 PSI (1,655 kPa).
  • Certain diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) set.


Electric Cooling Fan Assembly Radiator

A typical electric cooling fan assembly showing the radiator and related components.

To prevent a fan from cycling on and off excessively at idle, the fan may not turn off until the ignition switch is moved to the off position or the vehicle speed exceeds approximately 10 mph (16 km/h).

Many rear-wheel-drive vehicles and all transverse engines drive the fan with an electric motor.

  • NOTE: Most electric cooling fans are computer controlled. To save energy, most cooling fans are turned off whenever the vehicle is traveling faster than 35 mph (55 km/h). The ram air caused by the vehicle speed is enough to keep the radiator cool. Of course, if the computer senses that the temperature is still too high, the computer will turn on the cooling fan, to “high,” if possible, in an attempt to cool the engine to avoid severe engine damage.

Warning: Some electric cooling fans can come on after the engine is off without warning. Always keep hands and fingers away from the cooling fan blades unless the electrical connector has been disconnected to prevent the fan from coming on. Always follow all warnings and cautions.

Thermostatic Fins

On some rear-wheel-drive vehicles, a thermostatic cooling fan is driven by a belt from the crankshaft. It turns faster as the engine turns faster. Generally, the engine is required to produce more power at higher speeds. Therefore, the cooling system will also transfer more heat. Increased fan speed aids in the required cooling. Engine heat also becomes critical at low engine speeds in traffic where the vehicle moves slowly. The thermostatic fan is designed so that it uses little power at high engine speeds and minimizes noise. Two types of thermostatic fans include:

  • Silicone coupling. The silicone coupling fan drive is mounted between the drive pulley and the fan. HINT: When diagnosing an overheating problem, look carefully at the cooling fan. If silicone is leaking, then the fan may not be able to function correctly and should be replaced.
  • Thermostatic spring. A second type of thermal fan has a thermostatic spring added to the silicone coupling fan drive. The thermostatic spring operates a valve that allows the fan to freewheel when the radiator is cold. As the radiator warms to about 150°F (65°C), the air hitting the thermostatic spring will cause the spring to change its shape. The new shape of the spring opens a valve that allows the drive to operate like the silicone coupling drive. When the engine is very cold, the fan may operate at high speeds for a short time until the drive fluid warms slightly. The silicone fluid will then flow into a reservoir to let the fan speed drop to idle.
Engine Driven Thermostatic Spring Cooling Fins

A typical engine-driven thermostatic spring cooling fins

The fan is designed to move enough air at the lowest fan speed to cool the engine when it is at its highest coolant temperature. The fan shroud is used to increase the cooling system efficiency.

Tech Tip: Be Sure to Always Use a Fan Shroud

A fan shroud forces the fan to draw air through the radiator. If a fan shroud is not used, then air is drawn from around the fan and will reduce the airflow through the radiator. Many overheating problems are a result of not replacing the factory shroud after engine work or body repair work to the front of the vehicle.

Next Steps towards ASE Certification

Now that you’re familiar with Coolant Flow in the Engine, try out our free Automotive Service Excellence Tests to see how much you know!

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Free ASE Test Questions A1-A8

Are you looking to ace the Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) A1-A8 tests on your way to becoming an ASE certified Master Mechanic?

If so, try out these free ASE test questions to build your knowledge and prepare for the exams. Choose any of the free A1-A8 tests to practice showing off your knowledge and mechanic skills for free to know where you stand! After clicking on your answer, be sure to review what the correct answer and explanation.

By practicing on these free ASE test questions, you’ll know exactly where to study up on, whether it’s transmission/transaxle, suspension & steering, or even brakes – you’ll know exactly which study guides to hone in on and follow. Be sure to check out the auto mechanic certification requirements by state for additional information!

Good luck!

  • General Engine Diagnosis
  • Cylinder Head and Valve Train Diagnosis and Repair
  • Engine Block Diagnosis and Repair
  • Lubrication and Cooling Systems Diagnosis and Repair
  • Fuel, Electrical, Ignition, and Exhaust Systems Inspection and Service

  • General Transmission/Transaxle Diagnosis (Mechanical/Hydraulic Systems, Electronic Systems)
  • In-Vehicle Transmission/Transaxle Maintenance and Repair
  • Off-Vehicle Transmission/Transaxle Repair (Removal and Installation, Disassembly and Assembly, Friction and Reaction Units)

  • Clutch Diagnosis and Repair
  • Transmission Diagnosis and Repair
  • Transaxle Diagnosis and Repair
  • Drive Shaft/Half-Shaft Diagnosis and Repair (Front and Rear Wheel Drive)
  • Drive Axle Diagnosis and Repair
  • Four-Wheel Drive/All-Wheel Drive Component Diagnosis and Repair

  • Steering Systems Diagnosis and Repair (Columns, Units, Linkage)
  • Suspension Systems Diagnosis and Repair (Front, Rear)
  • Related Suspension and Steering Service
  • Wheel Alignment Diagnosis, Adjustment, and Repair
  • Wheel and Tire Diagnosis and Service

  • Hydraulic, Power Assist, and Parking Brake Systems Diagnosis and Repair
  • Drum Brake Diagnosis and Repair
  • Disc Brake Diagnosis and Repair
  • Electronic Brake Control Systems (ABS, TCS, ECS) Diagnosis and Repair

  • General Electrical/Electronic System Diagnosis
  • Battery and Starting System Diagnosis and Repair
  • Charging System Diagnosis and Repair
  • Lighting Systems Diagnosis and Repair
  • Instrument Cluster and Driver Information Systems
  • Body Electrical Systems Diagnosis and Repair

  • A/C System Service, Diagnosis and Repair
  • Refrigeration System Component Diagnosis and Repair
  • Heating and Engine Cooling Systems Diagnosis and Repair
  • Operating Systems and Related Controls Diagnosis and Repair

  • General Engine Diagnosis
  • Ignition System Diagnosis and Repair
  • Fuel, Air Induction, and Exhaus Systems
  • Emissions Control Systems Diagnosis and Repair
  • Computerized Engine Controls Diagnosis and Repair

Secret ASE Certification Test Taking Tips!

Test taking is an acquired, learned skill in any subject or industry and it’s important that you fully acquaint yourself with the test material and format before you walk in on the big day. Hands-on experience and learning in the field is important for anyone looking to take the Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) Certification test but if you really want to excel and pass with flying colors, you have to take a more strategic approach and study the test itself!

Practice tests are fantastic because they provide you with important information about a number of factors. You’ll learn what basic testing format you should expect, some of the possible material that might be presented, and, best of all, you’ll become aware of any holes in your training and technical knowledge to address before you take the real test. These three components are of the utmost importance when preparing for a big test, especially one that can change the course of your career moving forward!

You’ll find example questions in a practice test for the ASE Certification test right here at the ASE Certification Training Headquarters. You can also take the official practice tests on the ASE website, but there is a $14.95 cost per practice test, so we highly recommend trying the free ones first. The questions are standard, relevant, and related so that you can test your knowledge and master the test on your first attempt. You might also try considering taking some technical classes before committing to the official practice test. Do you know what a moderately loose alternator belt might cause in a vehicle? Try the practice questions and test your knowledge right now!